Follicusan™ – Active ingredient, Studies, and Mechanism of Action in Detail
Follicusan™
A bioactive ingredient complex based on milk protein, developed for the hair root. This dossier summarizes what Follicusan™ is, how it works on the dermal papilla, what the manufacturer's studies show, and what the limitations of the data are.
The Target: The Dermal Papilla
Every hair grows from a follicle, and every follicle is controlled by a small group of cells at its base: the dermal papilla. It is connected to the body via blood vessels and sends signals whether a hair grows, rests, or falls out. According to the manufacturer, Follicusan™ acts precisely here and stimulates the functionality of these cells.
Schematic representation. The graphic shows the point of action, not the actual size ratios.
Anagen, Catagen, Telogen: What hair loss is about
Hair does not grow continuously, but in cycles. The perceived hair density is determined by the ratio of the phases to each other: The more hairs are simultaneously in the growth phase, the fuller the hair appears. If the ratio shifts towards the resting phase, more hairs fall out than grow back.
Growth Phase
The matrix cells divide, and the hair grows about one centimeter per month. In healthy scalp, approximately 85 to 90 percent of all hairs are in this phase.
approx. 85 – 90 % of hairsTransition Phase
Cell division stops, the follicle contracts and detaches from the blood supply. A short but crucial remodeling phase.
approx. 1 – 2 % of hairsResting Phase
The hair rests and eventually falls out, allowing new hair to grow. If this percentage increases, it is called diffuse hair loss (telogen effluvium).
approx. 10 – 15 % of hairsPercentage values are trichological guidelines for healthy scalp and vary individually.
The reported effect of Follicusan™
According to the manufacturer, Follicusan™ shifts this ratio in a favorable direction: more follicles in the anagen phase, fewer in the telogen phase. As a result, CLR reports improvements in both hair density and cumulative hair thickness.
What the studies show
The following values are derived from application studies conducted by the manufacturer CLR Berlin and from formulation documents published for cosmetic manufacturers. We present them as reported, including the limitations mentioned below.
Application study on diffuse and androgenetic hair loss
| Test Substance | Formulation with 5% Follicusan™ DP |
|---|---|
| Application | twice daily to the scalp |
| Duration | 3 months |
| Observed Group | Persons with Alopecia diffusa and Alopecia androgenetica |
| Reported Result | Normalization of hair growth cycles, shift from telogen to anagen |
| Source | Manufacturer documentation CLR Berlin |
Honest assessment of the data situation
- Origin of data: The values mentioned largely come from manufacturer's studies, not from independent, placebo-controlled studies in peer-reviewed journals.
- Cosmetic, not medicine: Follicusan™ is a cosmetic active ingredient. Cosmetics may influence the appearance and condition of hair, but they do not treat diseases.
- Individual differences: Hair loss has many causes, from genetics to hormones to iron deficiency. No topical active ingredient works the same for everyone.
- Time factor: The hair cycle is slow. Changes appear at the earliest after weeks to months, not days.
- When to see a doctor: In case of sudden, circular or rapidly increasing hair loss, the cause should be medically clarified, not cosmetically treated.
What matters in the formulation
An active ingredient only works as well as it is incorporated. For Follicusan™, the manufacturer provides clear guidelines that must be adhered to in the finished formulation.
Leave-in beats Rinse-off
Follicusan™ targets the hair root, not the hair shaft. For the complex to have time on the scalp, a product that remains there, such as a serum or a scalp tonic, is advisable. In products that are rinsed out after a short application time, the contact time is naturally significantly shorter.
Follicusan™ – Questions and Answers
What exactly is Follicusan™?
Follicusan™ DP is a cosmetic active ingredient complex from the Berlin-based manufacturer CLR (Chemisches Laboratorium Dr. Kurt Richter GmbH). It combines bioactive signaling proteins from milk with ethylpanthenol, inositol, acetyl cysteine, and acetyl methionine in an aqueous-alcoholic medium.
How does Follicusan™ work?
According to the manufacturer, the complex stimulates the dermal papilla cells in the hair follicle. This is intended to shift the ratio of hair cycle phases: more hairs in the growth phase (anagen), fewer in the resting phase (telogen).
Is Follicusan™ vegan?
No. The complex contains protein fractions derived from milk as well as lactose and is therefore not vegan. Caution is advised for individuals with a milk protein allergy when using topically .
How long does it take to see results?
The hair cycle works in months, not days. The manufacturer's studies refer to an application period of three months with twice-daily use. Shorter periods are not conclusive for an assessment.
Does Follicusan™ help with hereditary hair loss?
Follicusan™ is a cosmetic active ingredient and not a medicine. While the manufacturer's studies include individuals with androgenetic alopecia, this does not replace either a medical diagnosis or medical therapy. For persistent or increasing hair loss, the cause should be clarified.
What concentration of Follicusan™ should be included?
The manufacturer states 3 to 5 percent in the finished formulation. The study on the hair cycle was conducted with a 5 percent formulation.
Can Follicusan™ be combined with caffeine?
Yes, both active ingredients are water-soluble and are often used together in scalp products. They address different points of action and are not mutually exclusive in terms of formulation.
Is Follicusan™ a medication?
No. It is a cosmetic raw material subject to the European Cosmetic Regulation. Cosmetic products are intended for cleansing, care, and beautification, not for the treatment of diseases.
Sources and further documents
- CLR Chemisches Laboratorium Dr. Kurt Richter GmbH, Berlin: Product documentation Follicusan™ DP (description of action, INCI, dosage, pH range, solubility, preservation). clr-berlin.com
- CLR Berlin: Formulation examples with Follicusan™ DP (e.g., "Healing Root Treatment", "Beard & Hair Nutrient", "3-in-1 Lash & Eyebrow Treatment").
- Raw material data sheet Follicusan™ DP, published via specialist databases for cosmetic raw materials (composition and application recommendations).
- Specialist literature on the hair cycle: Distribution of anagen, catagen, and telogen phases in healthy scalp (trichological standard values).
Research status: July 2026. All efficacy claims are manufacturer's claims and are labeled as such. Should new, independent studies appear, we will update this dossier.
Why we use this active ingredient
We selected Follicusan™ because it acts where hair originates: at the hair root. In our CLASSIC Hair Growth Serum, the complex is combined with caffeine in a leave-in formulation that remains on the scalp, providing the contact time such an active ingredient needs.
It is important to us not to promise more than the data suggests. Therefore, this dossier: with the manufacturer's figures, but also with the limitations.
This article provides information about a cosmetic active ingredient and does not constitute medical advice. It does not replace diagnosis or treatment by medical professionals.
